R2-Q5 Center Foot Build

I can't believe its been about 3 years since I did lots of updates. But here's more work I've been doing. This center foot took me about 1 month to do from start (have all the parts) to painted and completed.

It don't really take that long to assemble this foot. But it was 4 years ago that I constructed my other foot on R5-D4 and the center foot shell was manufactured different and I simply forgot how the hell this thing is assembled. So I looked up past center foot build and that gave me most of my answers I needed.

Pictured here are two heavy duty Misumi casters. These casters cost around $60-75 each! and they weigh a ton. The two casters are sitting on a steel plate that is not yet primed. Below the steel plate is a primered steel plate with rounded corners and has 3 large and 4 holes already drilled into it. This was the old standard hardware that came with the JAG foot system he created. That worked just fine for certain types of casters but these expensive monster Misumi casters need a long steel plate. So I went to Online Metals and orders a steel plat that is .125 by 5x8 inches as shown above. The cost was $4.40 and $6 bucks to ship.

 The center foot I painted black and then fastened the footstrips on bolts and lock washers. I used some Glazing Putty to cover the holes int the foot strips. I also drilled 3 holes into the foot channel to attach to the U shaped hardware. I realized I only needed 2 holes so I bondod the center hole and repaired it and reapainted it black. For this type of build everything has to be assembled in order or it's a bigger pain in the ass than it already is.

Next up I got the 2 steel plates ready. The U shaped steel plate on the left had many holes already drilled in it. I taped 4 holes for what I think was 10-20 screws. Then I screwed on the 4 spaces you see in the U channel plate. Next to that plate on the right is the steel plate I ordered from Online Metals. I placed the casters on that plate and used an automatic punch to mark where I wanted to drill and tap what I need. So I taped 8 holes 1/4 inch if memory is right and screwed in 8 bolts. Then I drilled and counter sunk 4 holes that will be used to attach this steel plate to the U channel plate. I used a bit of blue Loctite but if you also do a build like I have, it should never come apart. Also after I tapped all the holes I needed I cleaned out all the junk from tappng and then primed the steel. Remember to do this or it will rust.

For illustration of how this works I put the top plate on the U channel so you can see how this will go together inside the footshell. Also note the 8 bolts are a bit to long and I ended up using a dremel to cut the bolt in half to make it easier to put locknuts on later.

Now for the actual foot construction. This was for me hands down THE hardest part of this center foot build. As I said you need to assemble this in order or its too much work trying to assemble nearly 20 pounds of steel and aluminum. So you start this by mounting the center ankle cylinders to the center ankle. What you see above is the only method I was able to do to attach it to the ankle. I don't remember how I did this on R5 as that was 4 years ago and I don't remember what burger I ate yesterday. So at first you will simply try to bolt these on using allen bolts or hex bolts. The problem is the area you have to try to get your fingers down in is too small. My fat fingers pretty much take up the entire area. I tried to find a person with very tiny fingers to try to get the allen bolts on and it didn't work.

So above is my solution. I went to Ace Hardware and bought a threaded rod that is 10-20 by 2 inches long. Then I screwed the bolt into the cylinder as seen above and dremeled off the bolt until it just has enuff meat for a locknut to fit on. So now the bold easily go into the center ankle and instead you need some tiny fingers to get some locknuts started. Then finish fastening them with a wrench. I don't know how other builders pulled this off, but that's how I did it.

So after both cylinders are on the center ankle you are free to attach the center ankle to the center footshell. That part is pretty easy so no photos needed.

Now with center foot and ankle attached I bolted on the U channel with the 4 stand offs as seen above. After you finish that get the 2 half moons and outer foot plate and attach it to the 4 predrilled holes you see in the U channel. You have to do this now because after you install the 5x8 steel plate you won't have access to this areas anymore.

Next install the 4 bolts that fasten the bottom steel plate to the U channel. I got 1 of my holes a bit off but it all holds together extremely snugg and well build.

Next drop in the 2 casters and put on 8 locknuts and it's about ready to mount on your droid! Notice that these awesome casters do not touch or bind together when at their closest. There is also no need to remove material from the footshell like many others did in the past with casters that have a wide swivel range.

Here she is. R2-Q5's center foot ready for action. This thing is  H E A V Y. Weighing in at 18.4 pounds.

My Cylon Helmet

I haven't done an update in a while but I have been working on various projects so here is an update.

I ordered a Clyon Helmet from Starbuck. Here is what came in the kit.

Kit came with 2 side of the helmet, mouth grill, some black resin parts for the eye area.

This eye scanner I found on ebay from a guy out of Canada. It was around $50 bucks and a rapid solution to get the eye up and running.

So I removed the extra styrene from both haves of the helmets and then used left over styrene to make small tabs as seen in the mohawk. I superglued them in a staggering manner. I also took a pencil and hand drew where I needed to cut out the eye and mouth sections with a razor knife.

So with the eye area cut out that brings me to this. Its about ready to fasten together and if you do this alone it can be a bit tricky at first.

I used rare Earth magnets and a clamp to hold them together while I spot welded it slowly with super glue.

About an hour or so of doing that it left me with this! Now its starting to look like an old school Cylon. The helmet still needs more reenforcement with styrene.

So I put super glued in more tabs to make the helmet more sturdy. It looks a bit ugly inside but that will change.

Next I got a glass jar and poured Weldon 3 in there and cut up scraps of styrene and let that set for an hour and start to melt into goo. Then I used a cheap throw away paint brush and started coating the goo over the entire outside crack and then in the inside also. This stuff smells nasty so don't inhail it if you don't have too. I think Weldon 3 is not legal in California.

Here is a photo of inside the bucket. The plastic tabs are alot smoother now and the inside is reenforced pretty good. I left the helmet out side to cure for several days. PROTIP: Don't over do it with uber layers of the white goo. If you need to apply alot to build up an area do it it layers. If you try too much when its time to sand, you'll notice the white goo gums up and don't sand worth a damn. If you need serious build up then try Bondo instead.

After more sanding I applyed some Glazing Putty (red colored material) to further smooth out the mohawk crack. If you look closely in the old TV series you can clearly see both halves of the helmet and what looks like Scotch Tape holding it together. So one don't need to go this far with removing the crack if you want to look cannon.

Working on R2-Q5's dome

Here is my construction of the R2-Q5 dome in styrene. What seems like an easy project has turned into quite a challenge, read on.

The inner and outer domes didn't quite fit so I had to cut the inner dome in half. I used Weld On 3 first to put the spider looking ring on. Glued the bottom but it didn't hold.

 So I used my trusty magnets to clamp and slowly glued section by section until it was secure. Don't add too much Weld On 3 or it will worp the styrene.

What worpage might look like! If this happens don't panic. Its from using too much Weld On 3. So I used a mouse sander with 120 grit and some glazing putty to remove it. Expect the unexpected or known unknowns as Rumsfeld likes to say.:)

Now that I have the outer dome back to one piece with the inner top dome fasted. I start cutting in the detail pieces like the Holoprojectors and make pencil marks of the panels locations.

Then the next logical step seems to be to paint the the aluminum HPs. Or is it?

Then I installed the HDPE ring and had to custom notch for 1 HP and 1 of the PSI. The PSI install I'm just making this up as I go. There is no instruction manual to this unless you consider this blog posting one.

This is what the other side looks like. After 1 year as a parts collector its fun to finally put this project together. I gotta hurry though since Comic Con is two weeks away from the time I snapped this photo.

Its hard to see but I'm now joining the entire inner and outer domes. I'm starting on this side and will work my way around. I'm using dimes as spacers to keep the gaps just right.

 

Right after I welded both parts together I get online and check out the rare photos of R2-Q5. Lazy me I should have did that first. This black section of the ring is not supposed to be painted black. If I don't fix this its the kind of thing that will keep me up at night so time for a Qtip and Acetone to remove it.

Okay, this is more like it. I like the offset look it has like this anyway.

Oh

Ut Oh! What do you have here? This don't look right at all. Well, what happened as I moved around the dome with Weld On 3 adhesive bonded inner and outer skin. Not only did they not fit well top and bottom wise. They don't fit diameter wise  and off 3/8 of an inch or more. So I ended up cutting the dome hoping to fix the spacing issues. So I was stuck and pondered for a while what are my opinions now?

1. Toss it in the dump and order another dome and recycle some of the parts.

2. Ponder more until I find a solution.

 Should you find yourself in this situation of a dome giving you a hard time like I have. The next step is to get our your chainsaw and start cutting it to make it fit.

Just kidding I used a 'box cutter' not a chain saw and removed the out dome which I'll have to make do with what I have and some how get this to work. It does seem kind of hopeless at this point but I'm not giving up yet.

Then I got out one of my useful tools I ever bought which are rare Earth magnets (clamps in this case) and used it to bond whats left of the outer dome the inner. I didn't think that Weld On 3 was so strong but once you glue something with it its not coming apart unless you bust it up.

So at my last stop I'm going to have one hell of a bend or bump in the dome since I'm forcing this. Inside I have a very large 2 inch rare Earth magnet.

So I got it done. Its all down hill now I can just trim the 2 or 3 outer pieces to fit and just put filler over it and paint. Less than 2 weeks away from Comic Con and I really don't need anymore surprises in this build.

It's all coming together like one massive jig saw puzzle. I like to post all the good stuff about building these droids and some of the harder challenges so if you find yourself in a situation like this don't give up. Usually there is a way to keep going even when it seems like you come up against a wall.

On the inside of the inner dome I also made over a dozen slices before I glued both sides together to help make them fit a little better. 

Here's some of the tools I'm using at this point a mouse sander, drill and a trick I learned from another builder Droidwelder to join styrene or weld it. You add Acetone into a glass jar and then add your scrap styrene (don't throw any way). Then you wait about 1 hour for it to start to melt the styrene. 

Next us a paint bush and dig our that white glue and put it over the seems or cracks you're repairing. Wait 24 hours for the Acetone to evaporate and then use an electric sander to grind down the your sealant.

Even though I cut up the outer skin and forced some sections to fit I ended up with a bump or a choke point where then end point was last seal. It was like a bump in R2's head it was sticking out too far to sand down. So I took our a step bit and drilled the entire bump out and removed it completely.

Looking from the inside of the dome at the hole I used scrap styrene and a magnet to hold some backing on there to patch the hole up. I'm just making this up as I go along now.  Starting to stress out as I have 11 days to Comic Con and this still isn't painted and I keep have surprise issues spring up that take days for things to cure or dry. Sometimes in the construction industry when they are out of time/money to complete the project the term 'rape it' is muttered to fly through the project just to get it down and give them a bumper warranty. Warranty lasts aslong as you can see the bumper of my truck leaving is the saying. I'm not at rape it yet but its in the back of mind looking at this dome.

It took 3 days for the styrene to dry over the hole I made and it still was wet. So I dug that styrene out, used JB Weld instead then glazing putty and were getting closer and closer to painting.

The Comic Con is only 7 days away from the time this photo was taken and do or die I have to put the black coat on by Sunday and I haven't even started on the radar eye yet. So its time to 'semi rape it'. I figured only I'll see the bad stuff and everyone else will look at it for a few seconds take a photo and move on. I can fix the parts I don't like later. Plus when you paint something black it will show every imperfection there is that you can't see until its painted.

I also forgot to mention after I paint it primer, black and then some parts copper. I have to install all of the electronics. So yeah, its rapethirty at this point of the build.

As I installed the Teeces logics I had unexpected bugs and it didn't work of course. So I grabbed the electronics out of the tinted dome and they worked just fine. 

I got the dome done just in the nick of time. The feet and skirt aren't done yet. More on Phoenix Comic Con on my next update.

Dome is pretty much finished

After some careful work reshaping the Radar Eye to fit this dome the project is almost done.

Right now I'm going two steps forward and one step back. As expected the parts I JB welded on  to the paint aren't holding. So its time for a backup plan. My fix to hold these parts in position is I'm going to make a 1/4 inch thick acrylic ring that fits inside the dome. I'll notch out holes for the Holoprojecters, PSI holders and logics. The ring will also be used to center the dome on the body. My wife calls it my never ending project and it sure feels like this is never gonna end. I think its really looking cooler with each upgrade. Some of the dome is getting yucked up with small scratches, smears from where and tear. Its been a fun experiment however.

I have also started to work on the all black styrene dome that will also go on this droid. That project isn't going to last 1 year and should be done in a few weeks. I'll progress photos of that coming soon. When both domes are finished then its time to install the radio control electronics and install the feet.

Dome Work

I've been doing a lot of work on the tinted dome now that I have all the parts I need for it and electronics soldered together.

Lets begin with cutting the front logics display into an acrylic tinted dome. I used my laser cut styrene dome to help me trace were all the panels go. After I painted the black panels on the inside of the dome. I marked where to cut in the logics, PSI and HP next.

Here I drill a series of holes and slowly remove material and then file it away very slowly until I reach the size hole I want to make.

Now I have both front logics cut in. They'll hide behind the paint somewhat. Next I'll need to drill holes in them, paint them and mount to the Teeces Logic display. I was worried that small black bar between the logics in the dome would break. So far its holding up nicely.

Again sitting by the pool either soldering parts, painting or cutting up something in Arizona. I'm typically shirtless in our awesome weather working on droids. Here I'm marking where I'm about to cut open the rear logic display by using blue tape that I copied after I put a laser cut styrene outer dome shell over this one.

I drill several dozen small holes into the area I want to cut out. I slowly bust this out with a 4-40 threaded rod to finish the same holes and connect them.

Later I file it until the logics fit in.

Now I drill out the PSI hole with a drill by a series of small holes.

Then I used a round file to remove more material until I got close to the circle I made with a silver marker. I put blue tape over the dome to protect it in case I get carried away and accidentally hit the dome with a file or drill during construction. I highly recommend doing this if you choose to follow this route. Protect your investment in product and painstaking time not to damage as you build. 

You're not going to make a perfect circle with a file and a line. To get a better circle the old method is using a wine bottle with sandpaper on it. So I used 80 grit sandpaper on it and pulled it to tweek the fit for the Holoprojectors to fit actually how I wanted them too

For my dome bumps I bought 2 carriage bolts for 60 cents each. I cut the head off, painted it black and will glue them in for installation. 

Now I'm cutting out the top HP in the dome. I put some blue tape around incase my drill slips. After I drill out the hole. I had some left over 4-40 threaded rod. I use that as a round file to connect the holes and remove this piece of material.

Now all of the holes in the dome are cut out for the front side.

This is the backside with all holes cut preinstallation of the Teeces logics and other parts.